Cairo — The Pyramids at 7am
Skip the midday crowds and heat. The pyramids at sunrise with the city haze behind them is ancient and immediate at once. Enter through the less-visited Menkaure side.
✨ Must-sees in Egypt
The real must-sees in Egypt go beyond the postcard spots. These are the places locals point visitors toward once the obvious sights are out of the way.
In Egypt, must-sees comes down to a few things: cairo — the pyramids at 7am, cairo — khan el-khalili souk, and cairo — the egyptian museum (or gem).
Cairo — Khan el-Khalili souk
A medieval marketplace still thriving. Spices, lanterns, perfume, gold. The deeper you go, the more authentic it gets. Stop at El Fishawy café — it's been open since 1773.
Cairo — The Egyptian Museum (or GEM)
The Grand Egyptian Museum near the Pyramids is the new home for Tutankhamun's treasures. The old museum downtown is chaotic and magnificent. See both if you can.
Alexandria — The Corniche
Walk the curved seafront, eat grilled fish at a waterfront restaurant, visit the modern Bibliotheca Alexandrina. Alexandria feels Mediterranean, not Middle Eastern — a different Egypt.
Alexandria — Pompey's Pillar and the Catacombs
Roman-era catacombs of Kom el-Shoqafa blend Egyptian, Greek, and Roman art. Pompey's Pillar is a lonely giant in a ruined temple. Both are uncrowded and atmospheric.
Alexandria — A seafood lunch in Anfushi
The fishing quarter serves the freshest catch in Egypt. Choose your fish from the display, they grill it. Squeeze lemon, add tahini, and eat with bread. Locals-only prices.
Luxor — Valley of the Kings
Pharaohs' tombs carved into desert rock. Go at opening (6am) before the heat is punishing. Tomb of Seti I has the finest paintings. Buy the extra ticket for Tutankhamun's tomb.
Luxor — Karnak Temple at dusk
The hypostyle hall with 134 massive columns is architecture from another consciousness. Late afternoon light streaming through the columns is staggering.
Luxor — A felucca to Banana Island
A short Nile sail from the west bank. Banana plantations, fields, and a simplicity that modern Luxor has lost. Negotiate with a captain at the dock. Bring your own snacks.