Amman — The Citadel at sunset
Roman, Byzantine, and Umayyad ruins on a hilltop overlooking the city. The Temple of Hercules and Umayyad Palace are atmospheric. Sunset paints the white stone city gold.
The real must-sees in Jordan go beyond the postcard spots. These are the places locals point visitors toward once the obvious sights are out of the way.
In Jordan, must-sees comes down to a few things: amman — the citadel at sunset, amman — downtown souks, and amman — jabal al-weibdeh.
Roman, Byzantine, and Umayyad ruins on a hilltop overlooking the city. The Temple of Hercules and Umayyad Palace are atmospheric. Sunset paints the white stone city gold.
The bustling markets below the Citadel. Spices, gold, textiles, and freshly squeezed juice. Hashem Restaurant serves the best falafel in Jordan — no menu, no pretense, incredible food.
The arts district. Galleries, independent bookshops, and Darat al Funun (an art foundation in 1920s houses). Weekend mornings here with coffee and a walk are peaceful.
Enter the Siq (narrow canyon) at opening (6am). Walk the 1.2km canyon alone as morning light creeps down the walls. When the Treasury appears, you'll gasp. Everyone does.
Most visitors see the Treasury and leave. Hike to the High Place for panoramic views over the ancient city. The Monastery (Ad-Deir) requires 800 steps but is less crowded and equally magnificent.
Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday evenings. The Siq lit by 1,500 candles, Bedouin music at the Treasury. It's touristy but genuinely atmospheric. The stars above the canyon are worth the trip alone.
Jordan's only coastal city has excellent coral reefs. The Japanese Garden and Cedar Pride wreck are top dive sites. Glass-bottom boats for non-swimmers.
Buy fresh fish from the market and have a nearby restaurant cook it for you. Red Sea fish, simply grilled with lemon and tahini, eaten with rice. The freshest meal in Jordan.
An hour's drive from Aqaba to Mars-like desert landscapes. Bedouin guides drive 4x4s through red sand valleys. Camp overnight under stars so bright they feel close enough to touch.