Lisbon — Alfama at dawn
Before the tourists wake, Alfama's narrow lanes are yours alone. Laundry hanging between buildings, fado drifting from open windows, cats on every corner. Miradouro da Graça for the sunrise.
✨ Must-sees in Portugal
The real must-sees in Portugal go beyond the postcard spots. These are the places locals point visitors toward once the obvious sights are out of the way.
In Portugal, must-sees comes down to a few things: lisbon — alfama at dawn, lisbon — lx factory on a saturday, and lisbon — a ginjinha standing up.
Lisbon — LX Factory on a Saturday
A converted industrial complex with bookshops, studios, restaurants, and weekend markets. It's creative, unpretentious, and the brunch spots are excellent.
Lisbon — A ginjinha standing up
Ginjinha is sour cherry liqueur served in a tiny cup at holes-in-the-wall near Rossio. One euro, standing room only, centuries of tradition. A Ginjinha and Ginjinha Sem Rival face each other — try both.
Porto — The Douro at sunset
Cross the Dom Luís I bridge, sit on the Vila Nova de Gaia side with a glass of port, and watch the sun set over Porto's colorful ribeira. One of Europe's most beautiful urban views.
Porto — Port wine cellars in Gaia
Taylor's, Graham's, Sandeman — the historic port houses offer tastings and tours. The caves are cool and atmospheric. End with a tawny port on the terrace overlooking the river.
Porto — Livraria Lello
One of the world's most beautiful bookshops. The neo-Gothic staircase is stunning. Yes, you pay to enter (redeemable on book purchase). Go at opening to avoid crowds.
Faro — Ria Formosa boat trip
This lagoon system has deserted barrier islands with pristine beaches. Take a fisherman's boat to Ilha Deserta — literally 'deserted island.' Pack a picnic, there's nothing there but sand and sky.
Faro — The bone chapel
Capela dos Ossos — walls lined with monks' bones. Macabre, contemplative, and deeply Portuguese. The inscription reads: 'We bones, here, await yours.' Five minutes of existential clarity.
Faro — Old town at night
The walled Cidade Velha is tiny and magical after dark. Cobblestones, orange trees, the cathedral lit up. Most Algarve tourists never make it past the airport. Their loss.